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<\/a><\/p>\nCONTACT <\/strong><\/p>\n A Chapter from “The Simplicity of Dressage”<\/em><\/p>\n By Johann Hinnemann and Coby van Baalen<\/p>\n Many riders spend their entire lives wrestling with their horse\u2019s contact. The horse is too heavy in the hand or too light; his head isn\u2019t quiet; he\u2019s stiff and against the hand; he tilts his head. Plenty of different problems! This is not the case, according to Coby van Baalen and Johann Hinnemann, when you see it as one of the six basic concepts of a jumping or dressage horse\u2019s training. Good contact always interplays with the concepts already mentioned \u2013 rhythm and losgelassenheit \u2013 as well as impulsion, straightness and collection. All of these together result in a horse that is nice to ride. The rider\u2019s aids go through optimally. This chapter discusses why good contact does not have to be a life-long struggle.<\/p>\n Most people are accustomed to thinking of the concept of contact as the sensitive and light, elastic connection with the horse\u2019s mouth that the horse offers in response to the rider\u2019s request. This is a somewhat limited view, according to van Baalen and Hinnemann. \u201cI feel that contact with the horse is actually affected by three points,\u201d says van Baalen. \u201cI believe that the first contact point is your leg. Your leg should be in constant contact with the horse, and the horse needs to understand what it is saying. Even the horse\u2019s basic understanding of that is already a type of contact. The second point is your seat, which includes your seat, knee and hip. You use your seat to give aids to your horse, which your horse answers by responding with movement. You can call that response \u2018contact\u2019. Finally, you have rein contact, which arises from the connection between the mouth and the rider\u2019s hand. That is the third contact point.\u201d<\/p>\n Hinnemann adds, \u201cI really want to emphasize that a rider first rides a horse with the legs and seat; then come the rein aids, as a support to the seat and legs. These three things together subsequently determine the quality contact that leads to the complete harmony and understanding between the horse and rider.\u201d<\/p>\n According to Hinnemann and van Baalen, contact originates from three areas of contact with the horse: the legs, seat, and hands. The three-point contact is clearly evident in the photo. Horse and rider are in balance. Ferro demonstrates a “live” contact.<\/em><\/p>\n Connection and Contact<\/strong> \u201cIndeed,\u201d Hinnemann says, \u201cpeople also say that the horse seeks the contact and the rider enables the horse to find it.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cIn other words,\u201d van Baalen adds, \u201cthe rider asks with the connection, and the horse answers with the contact.\u201d<\/p>\n A good contact provides the horse with the security he needs to regain his natural balance in all three gaits. When the horse is ridden with his neck stretched long and low, the neck is extended like an accordion, and the horse should absolutely not be pulled together. \u201cThe end result should always be an elastic contact,\u201d van Baalen says, \u201cin which the poll is the highest point and the ears are level. This applies to the lateral movements as well.\u201d<\/p>\n The ideal contact requires constant connection with the rider’s hand. This applies even in the free walk, as Marlies demonstrates here on the stallion Inspekteur.<\/em><\/p>\n The Logical Outcome<\/strong> \u201cA pleasant and light contact is subsequently the most important means of improving a horse\u2019s impulsion,\u201d says Hinnemann. \u201cA rider can straighten a horse by riding him forward with impulsion. A straight horse can finally achieve a degree of collection under his rider. In that way, the circle becomes complete: rhythm, losgelassenheit, contact, impulsion, straightness, and collection \u2013 they all work together. Finally, these qualities ensure that the horse is totally receptive to all the aids; we call that durchl\u00e4ssig, completely on the aids.\u201d<\/p>\n Of course, the rider\u2019s hand must always be present to achieve the ideal contact. Says Hinnemann, \u201cA horse will come behind the bit if he has too little connection with the rider\u2019s hand. Furthermore, the horse won\u2019t come on the bit anymore if he\u2019s allowed to take the bit in such a way that he can also readily back off it.\u201d<\/p>\n Coming Away from the Bit<\/strong> Ultimately, this state of perfect contact will help the horse and rider team in the future when both are further advanced in their training, not as an irrevocable thing that doesn\u2019t require further thought, but as something in which higher degrees of perfection can continually be achieved.<\/p>\n \u201cI could almost write a separate book about the idea degree of contact in coming off the bit,\u201d says Hinnemann. \u201cIt\u2019s an on-going development process that is not visible to the eye but is definitely felt by the rider.\u201d<\/p>\n Not with the Hands<\/strong> A correctly ridden horse seeks the contact himself. He approaches the bit with confidence.<\/p>\n Conformational Shortcomings<\/strong> In general, we can say that strong, heavily-built horses usually take a heavier contact than light, hot-blooded types. This is just a function of the horse\u2019s type. The stallion Zonneglans (Le Mexico out of a Rhodos by L’Espoir x Erasmus), as a six-year-old in 1987. In 1986, Zonneglans was rejected as a breeding stallion for his line. “He had nice movement, but he would get nervous at shows and that would sometimes cause problems with the contact,” explains van Baalen.<\/em><\/p>\n The Right Bit<\/strong> \u201cI must honestly say I\u2019ve noticed there\u2019s still little attention given to properly fitting bits,\u201d says Hinnemann. \u201cEven at the higher levels, I often see horses in double bridles with much too long a shank, with the curb so wide that it\u2019s pulled through the horse\u2019s mouth, and with a twisted chain. Seeking advice on the correct use of the double bridle is not shameful; on the contrary, it\u2019s a smart idea.\u201d<\/p>\n Previously, almost everyone rode with a single-jointed, fat eggbutt snaffle; nowadays, the thinner, loose-ring snaffle can be seen everywhere. \u201cYou shouldn\u2019t worry about fashions and practices,\u201d urges van Baalen, \u201crather, experiment a little with bits to see which your horse goes in best. Some horses like thick bits, others like thin bits. Notice your horse\u2019s temperament as you train him and take that into consideration.\u201d<\/p>\n Temperament<\/strong> Van Baalen has always ridden a lot of stallions. The stallion, Zonneglans (Le Mexico x L\u2019Espoir) bred by J. Bekkers, in St. Odenrode, could surprise his rider with respect to contact. \u201cZonneglans could suddenly get very nervous,\u201d explains van Baalen, \u201cand then all at once drop the bit. He would then start rattling the bit and pull his tongue up. Sometimes he would even get his tongue over the bridoon and curb. Then I would have to exit the arena, because I no longer had any control. This was in the mid to late 1980\u2019s and at that time, I still didn\u2019t have enough experience to solve that problem. Now if I am riding a stallion that suddenly does a similar thing, I know I have to give the reins forward so that the horse has the freedom to get his tongue back under the bits. It also helps to set the bit a little higher in the mouth. That\u2019s how you solve a temporary problem with the contact.\u201d<\/p>\n A rider striving for optimum contact must consider his horse\u2019s conformation as well as his temperament. However, if a rider always goes back to the basics of rhythm and relaxation and making contact with the leg, seat and hand, he will sooner or later receive the answer form the horse that he\u2019s been waiting for: Contact!<\/p>\n The bit rests on the toothless areas of the mouth: the bars<\/em><\/p>\n Learn to ride<\/strong> The parts of a curb bit. The bridoon and curb chain<\/strong> The Right Double Bridle<\/strong> The parts of a double bridle<\/strong> However, you have to consider that the horse gains tongue room at the expense of room elsewhere, such as the bars. This curb acts more severely on the bars than the average curb, precisely because the tongue is entirely free. A normal port spreads the pressure over the tongue and bars. \u2018Normal\u2019 is therefore always best, with an average port and shanks of reasonable length. The rules state that the shanks may not exceed four inches (10 cm), but this is very long, and requires a rider with very sensitive hands. Instead, choose a shank about half that length. The diameter of the bridoon ring may be as large as three inches (8 cm). I also think this is very large. This certainly does not make for a pretty picture on a horse with a small mouth. The bridoon and curb should visually look good in the horse\u2019s mouth; then it usually also feels good.<\/p>\n Consult your federation\u2019s regulations to learn what bits and bridles are permitted for dressage competition. A cavesson noseband is required with the double bridle; flash nosebands are not allowed.<\/p>\n Furthermore, the double bridle requires a curb chain. I\u2019ve never had a new girl at the barn who immediately could put on a double bridle without making a mistake. In 99 out of 100 cases, the curb chain is twisted. The same is true at shows, so always pay close attention. The chain hooks that are attached to the curb are different on the left and on the right sides, so also pay close attention when replacing one of the hooks. The curb chain, which lies against the chin groove at the same height as the curb, is essential for the curb to work. See the illustrations. The curb chain may be covered with a piece of leather or rubber for sensitive horses.<\/p>\n For my own feel, the double-link bridoon has proven itself over time. The double-link bridoon provides the advantage of tongue freedom, as discussed earlier. In addition, you should check that both bits are made of the same material, as stipulated in the rules. Every tack shop should also be able to tell you that. If you can, first borrow a double bridle from someone, perhaps your instructor, and then buy one once you know what fits your horse.<\/p>\n Adjusting<\/strong>Balance and contact are easy for the stallion Ehrentanz. Ridden by Coby van Baalen, M\u00fcnster 1999.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nVan Baalen and Hinnemann clearly want to emphasize their shared view that a good contact with the mouth can only occur if the rider also has good contact with the seat and legs. The rider maintains contact with the driving aids and strives for a rhythmic and relaxed, forward-moving horse. The horse takes the bit and draws, so the speak, on the rider\u2019s hand. In this way, contact is created.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
\nIn van Baalen and Hinnemann\u2019s view, a good contact is the logical outcome of riding forward and always striving for good rhythm and relaxation in the horse\u2019s movement. The horse develops a sure and constant contact out of this contented carriage and losgelassenheit (both physical and psychological in nature, as described in the previous chapter.)<\/p>\n
\n\u201cComing away from the bit?\u201d When you read the German expression for the first time, \u2018Abstoszen vom gebisz\u2019, you may be inclined to think that this \u2018coming away\u2019 is a major fault. However, coming away from the bit is decidedly not the same as not taking the bit at all. Hinnemann views coming away as a sign that the horse completely accepts the bit. The horse allows the impulsion of his hindquarters to flow over his back and through his neck to a closed but \u2018living\u2019 mouth. He trusts the bit completely. At the same time, the horse lightly and almost imperceptibly comes away from the bit. The rider notices the contact become even nicer and lighter and the driving and restraining aids are optimally communicated. The horse doesn\u2019t display any resistance in his body. The horse accepts the bit as part of his body, so to speak. Thus, coming away from the bit is actually the optimum contact a rider can have with the horse\u2019s mouth.<\/p>\n
\nThe rider should never force contact with the hands. \u201cEveryone has pulled on the reins to get a horse\u2019s head and neck in the right position,\u201d van Baalen says, \u201cbut to no avail. It\u2019s always detrimental to the horse\u2019s schooling. It may look nice \u2013 such a proud, round neck \u2013 and the horse may even come up a bit. However, if the shape of the neck is not the outcome of the driving aids and a good contact with the seat and legs, then it\u2019s meaningless, because the hindquarters aren\u2019t active and the back isn\u2019t swinging, allowing the movement to flow through the body. Using the hands from front to back always immediately causes the hind legs to step under the horse less actively. This should be a red flag to every rider. The hind legs not stepping through should never happen, because the goal of dressage is to improve the gaits! Contact and a particular neck shape should always be the outcome of the driving aids, a horse that moves in the correct rhythm, that shows contentment, and that moves with a supple body.\u201d<\/p>\n
\nOf course, achieving a good contact is not always easy. A rider\u2019s hands can often feel a horse\u2019s every problem. \u201cI always say that with riding,\u201d van Baalan states, \u201cand definitely with the contact, you actually fight against conformation flaws. Horses with flawed necks, for instance \u2013 too long or too high set \u2013 also have difficulty bending. In those cases, achieving a good contact will be far more difficult than with a horse that has a well-formed neck. This applies to horses with difficult mouths, too. If the hindquarters are weak, the horse will have difficulty with self- carriage behind, and that is also usually a contact problem with the rider\u2019s hand. If the horse\u2019s conformation contributes to an unsteady or difficult contact, and that\u2019s the case ninety percent of the time, then the rider needs a lot of extra patience to improve the conformation by making the horse stronger and properly muscled. It takes quite a bit of time to develop \u2013 to make usable, in any case \u2013 a part of the horse that nature didn\u2019t gift athletically.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
\nAnother reason for contact problems can be an improperly fitted bit or a bridoon and curb that don\u2019t lie comfortably in the horse\u2019s mouth. Most riders know the general guidelines: A bit fits properly and is adjusted to the proper height if it is approximately two-tenths on an inch (1\/2 cm) wider than the mouth and if the corners of the mouth are not pulled up too high. However, a bit adjusted too low is not good either, as it will often bump against the eye-teeth. The thinner the bit, the sharper the effect. A double-jointed snaffle allows the tongue a little more room than a single jointed snaffle.<\/p>\n
\nVan Baalen believes that contact is sometimes a matter of temperament and personality. One horse is more nervous than another, and that can also have repercussions on contact at times you do not expect it, like at a show.<\/p>\n<\/em><\/p>\n
\nI intentionally say \u2018learn to ride\u2019 because there\u2019s a second misunderstanding commonly associated with the double bridle. Learning to ride with the double bridle is grossly underestimated by most riders. It is far more difficult than most people think! The rider needs to have more sensitivity. Don\u2019t underestimate the action of the curb. The shank of the bit, or the lever arm, where the rein is attached directly affects the top of the horse\u2019s neck, just behind the ears. The leverage action of the curb means that a small aid given by the rider is felt much more intensely by the horse. It\u2019s for good reason that some people use a \u2018baby curb\u2019 when learning to ride with the double bridle. The baby curb has a shank four-tenths of an inch to one inch (1 \u2013 3 cm) which has less leverage effect than a longer shank. It\u2019s a compromise for both horse and rider and perhaps it\u2019s a useful transition bit.<\/p>\n
\n<\/strong>1. Mouthpiece
\n2. Port
\n3. Upper cheek
\n4. Shank
\n5. Bit ring
\n6. Space for a lip strap
\n7. Curb chain hook<\/p>\n
\nThe loose-ring bridoon of a double bridle is usually thinner than a normal loose-ring snaffle. In general, Coby van Baalen has had the best experiences with the double-jointed, loose-ring snaffle.<\/p>\n
\nIn general, an average bridoon and curb bit of normal thickness, are the best. Other types of curbs bits have their advantages, but at the same time, have disadvantages. A curb with a high port, for example, seems horse-friendly. A high port allows plenty of room for the tongue, right?<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\n1. Cavesson noseband
\n2. Curb cheekpiece
\n3. Bridoon cheekpiece
\n4. Bridoon rein
\n5. Curb rein
\n6. Bridoon bit
\n7. Curb bit
\n8. Curb chain<\/p>\n
\nYou should take a step back in your horse\u2019s schooling while he\u2019s adjusting to the double bridle. Do only exercises that are well confirmed and give your horse confidence in his new bridle. Do a lot of rising trot, stretching circles, figure eights, and serpentines so that you can learn how to gather up the reins smoothly and always take the correct length on the new outside rein and take the new inside rein a bit shorter through the turns and in the other direction. The curb rein should hang with a light loop through all this work as you maintain contact on the bridoon rein. Don\u2019t forget, as you can easily use too much curb rein. Some riders find it helpful to use two different reins made from different materials: for example, a fabric jumping rein for the bridoon rein and a thinner, leather rein for the curb.<\/p>\n